Important questions before purchasing the game

[blackwiggle]

Bt1886 is a Gamma setting, it's a combination Gamma that is designed specifically for Flatscreen TV's and Monitors, it starts at a low 2.2 gamma [so you get detail is the darkest Blacks] and then does a gently curve upward to around 2.4/2.5 gamma [which gives the image more punch and color saturation]......Ironically I calibrated my TV to BT1886 at Xmas, it was previously calibrated to a flat power Gamma of 2.2 across all IRE's [IRE's are different points of a 21 point Grey scale] which gave great detail across the board, but the picture lacked punch.

Your Samsung would still use the REC709 colour space for standard HD.

Using ST.2084 colour space for HDR is a bit different, most use REC.2020, although there isn't much difference between the two as NO TV on the market can reproduce the whole spectrum that either of those specs cover, either way, I expect your TV still uses BT1886 Gamma for HDR.
Although if you playback a 4K HDR movie via a 4K disc player, I suspect if you checked your TV's settings, it would read NATIVE in the colour space rather than ST.2020.

NATIVE means it's allowing the manufactures brightness limits of the screen via the way it's implemented 'Tone Mapping', which is basically similar to a electronic version of how digital projectors use a iris in front of the lens to open up or close down, depending on how bright the scene is, in the attempt to increase contrast.

Each manufacturer use of 'Tone Mapping' differs, it depends on the TV type [LCD/LED, OLED, QLED ] Samsung tend to 'Let it Rip' so to speak, and allow for a VERY bright image, especially in the highlights.
Since they don't make OLED screens they can get away with it, as QLED screen can be inherently brighter, although I'm not sure just how long that much light output will stay that way, or if it will cause premature failure of the TV's panels?

There really needs to be a "standard" for screen brightness, there isn't currently, as most of the newest TV screens realistically come in around the 600nit mark when measured [Plenty bright enough unless your in a open plan room with heaps of sunlight flooding the room], 1000 nits is the most realistic "standard" to set ............10,000nits is sort to equivalent of being outside in bright sunlight.
It would give you eye ache I think if you watched a 1000nit screen in a darkened room for any length of time.

Hopefully Dolby Vision and/ or HDR-10+ encoding of 4K HDR material will stop the madness which results with some scenes seeming too dark and others too bright
With current Bluray/4K discs, which only tell the TV/Disc player at the beginning of the program what the MAX brightest level will be for the entire movie will be, and Gamma will remain what your TV is set at, those encoded with Dolby Vision/HDR-10+ on 4k HDR material, tells the TV/Disc player what the MAX brightness/change of gamma, should be for each scene in the movie the director decides, quite a few people who own gear from manufacturers that are going to support the free to use HDR-10+ codec have been getting HDR-10+ software updates on their 4K disc players and TV's .
Dolby Vision is a paid license, so I doubt people will be getting that for free.

I have some 4K UHD calibration Test Patterns, as you can't use standard ones to calibrated 4K UHD, one of them is a 10,000 nit one, I asked my 4K disc player to play it just out of interest sake to see what would happen.....it span for a while 'thinking about it', then sort of said 'No way' and shut itself down, telling the TV to do the same, it was a WTF! moment where I though I had blown both the disc player and TV.