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Thread: PS3 NeGcon - Can it be done???

  1. #41
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    already worlds ahead of anything I have the time/patience/resources to do lol I understand all the stuff you're saying but I no longer have the knowledge to put it to practical use. I used to be able to look at written schematics and build them physically, and vice-versa. I just dropped most of my electronics interest about like 7 years ago.

    Good luck, then, since it seems like you've already got everything covered

    I am a bit curious how you wired your 360 and PS3 arcade stick module boxes, though, as that's actually what I'm in the process of doing right now myself Finished the PS3 one, but it's actually got a dual-shock 2 inside of it, and I use a PS2-USB adapter to use it on my ps3. THe wired 360 box is what I'm in the middle of right now... I wish I could get things done on such a small scale like you did, but I can't be bothered to really make things so compact. The three common lines in the dual shock 2 were a pain until I figured out why I was getting quirky behavior
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  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by AG-wolf View Post
    I am a bit curious how you wired your 360 and PS3 arcade stick module boxes, though, as that's actually what I'm in the process of doing right now myself Finished the PS3 one, but it's actually got a dual-shock 2 inside of it, and I use a PS2-USB adapter to use it on my ps3. THe wired 360 box is what I'm in the middle of right now... I wish I could get things done on such a small scale like you did, but I can't be bothered to really make things so compact. The three common lines in the dual shock 2 were a pain until I figured out why I was getting quirky behavior
    Not really a whole lot to them, just wire them up to a connector with enough pins for both wires for every switch you're using in the Arcade Stick is all. I personally can't stand using 3rd party controllers and always use first party ones though. Ton of info on the 360 as well as the PS3 controllers at XS I've compiled too.

    The only thing ya really need is a connector with enough pins so that ya have access to both lines from every button that's gonna be in the Arcade Stick, that means 8 for the Joy and 2 for each button. This way you can plug up whatever controller ya feel like as the layout of it makes not one lick of difference since ya have access to both lines from every button. If ya go wiring up the thing in the layout that the controller uses all bets are off for using it with other controller boards because they're gonna have a different layout, so ya take care of that in the module/box while ya keep both lines of every button of the Arcade Stick separate, then ya never have to worry about it and can make a controller module/box for anything ya feel like really. There would be no way at all for the 360 and PS3 ones I made to work in the same housing if I wired up the Arcade Stick connector side in one or the other controller's button layout, as the PS3 has a 3 Common line setup, while the 360 controller I used was the CG (Common Ground) one. That means a bigger connector, but in the long run it pays off as ya can make a new module/box with whatever controller ya feel like and it'll still work in yer Arcade Stick.

  3. #43
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    I'm out. I tried it in a wheel, that microsoft twist thing and a wired ps3 pad, but it's the same in all, even when I tried the sensitivity function of the wheel, no dice. I think the new pot might work though, if I could find one to fit the thing that is. I did rip one out of that pc controller I used, but have no idea what the k is

    Wehre do you find these variable pots that will work in the negcon? sites? I thought I found one that was going to work perfectly in a wheel I had for the ps2, but it turned out to be 10k. Then found one in the raCcon, but that was 5k, but it was too small
    Last edited by JABBERJAW; 30th May 2009 at 01:53 PM.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by JABBERJAW View Post
    Wehre do you find these variable pots that will work in the negcon? sites? I thought I found one that was going to work perfectly in a wheel I had for the ps2, but it turned out to be 10k. Then found one in the raCcon, but that was 5k, but it was too small
    Never said that I did exactly, just that I have one on order to see if it will. Places like Mouser, Digikey, Newark and the like are great sources off all kinds of electronic components, provided ya can sift thru all of the different kinds and find the one that will or is most likely to work, means looking at heaps of datasheets, and knowing what at least some of it means.

    I've also noticed at least 2 versions of the neGcon so far, and they use slightly different style POTs as well, so there's that issue to deal with too.

  5. #45
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    http://www.electronics123.co.za/
    Granted it's out of south africa, so probably not very local to any of us here; but I've used them on more than one occasion to order low quantities of arbitrary components for wicked cheap, and shipping was very cheap too. Their site seems a little unresponsive atm, I hope they're still up...

  6. #46
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    They're still up.

  7. #47
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    someone help me a little here. I have the negcon pot. this is a 10k not sure on the degrees. I have also found

    1) 10k 240 deg

    2) 10k 140 deg

    3) 10k 90 deg


    does the 10k stand for how long the controller starts to work (getting past the dead zone)?, and the degrees is until max turn? I don't quite get it yet. What if I had a 5k at 120 deg, would that be better or worse than the others? This is the first time I have dealt with anything analog, so I am learning on the go here.

    Oh, i am ripping these things out of wheels/joysticks that I do not use anymore, and just realized that those foot pedals may have less resistance, or less of a turning radius. I'm going to check them out

  8. #48
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    10k means ten kilo-ohms, it's the maximum resistance value of the pot. I imagine 90/140/240 should be the twist of the spindle... figure divide the 90/140/240 in half, since zero-twist on the negcon is the halfway point of its internal pot, and that's the number of degrees you are able to twist in either direction. If they are linear pots, the resistance will increase/decrease at a steady rate depending on which way it is twisted, but if they're logarithmic, the value increases and decreases on a curve. I'm sure RDC said somewhere in this post whether the twist pot is linear or logarithmic... but I guess you'd have to look for one with the same value as the left/right axis pot in the dual shock... and even then, the control stick never tilts as far as the pot is able to actually move, it's only using a percentage of the total range... blah blah blah variable after variable after variable

  9. #49
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    then 90 should be great, if it works. 45 degrees each direction. I'll try it tomorrow.

  10. #50
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    Dunno what I was thinking with changing the value to 5k, it's used as a voltage divider in there, so lowering the value isn't gonna do dink, so I have a pretty useless part on the way here now, aka back to the drawing board.

    The only issue with swapping it to a lower turning radius one is you'll be able to turn the neGcon more than the POT can, and that can/will damage the POT, and in the heat of game play it's extremely likely to happen before ya know it. It'll really depends on how the thing is setup internally though, if it's still able to turn the full 240 degrees, but only 90 of it is actual Resistance, then ya should be good with that, though 90 may make it really touchy as it maxes the turn out before the POT hits it's max movement.
    Last edited by RDC; 31st May 2009 at 11:20 AM.

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