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Thread: PS3 NeGcon - Can it be done???

  1. #61
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    with that 90 one, there was a slight dead zone, but tiny, I will see when I put it into the negcon

  2. #62
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    ONce again D post, but this is good. That 90 degree 10k seems like a success !! It turns up until around 45 degrees or so on both sides. With gradients as well. It will take a little practice, and more degrees like 145 MAY be better, but I doubt it. The only problem at this point, is it is turning the opposite way that I am telling it to do. Switching wires did not change this, so I am trying to figure a way to make the controller hook together backwards, so you are still holding it the same way. Upside down is not an option. I used a steering wheel guts to test this. but I am sure that the wired controller would have reacted the same way. The steering wheel had better ports for testing and hooking up. I think I am going to take a break from this until AFTER the wipeout tourney though. it has wrecked three days of practice. I would have been done the first round of practice by now. OH well.

    OH, there is a slight dead zone in the middle, but it seems to be a good thing. I haven't been able to really race yet, since I havent hooked up the buttons. HOpefully someone can test this from here.

  3. #63
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    If left/right are backwards just swap the 2 outside wires on the POT, fixed.

  4. #64
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    ok, I was switching the middle and the left. I thought black was ground. I'll try that later I think. Otherwise if it didn't work, i would use it upsides down, and put in new buttons. I had to put in buttons anyway

  5. #65
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    hey, how are you folks getting on with this?

  6. #66
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    I am going to be able to do it. I got the twist right I believe, and I know how to hook up t he rest. It will look a little different, since that dpad hookup is a nightmare for me, I will use a different one. I need to wait until after the wipeout tourney so I can practice though, too many little things while I was putting it together was making it take way too long. I think I will take pictures as I go.

  7. #67
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    Why should it look any different when yer done?


    I've tossed the POT idea and am working with a coder to get it done up with a PIC between the POT and PS3 controller, so the thing will have a few different sensitivity settings for the Twist.

  8. #68
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    because I am stupid, and do not know what the coder is, or how to use one, not to mention what is a PIC I need to put in different buttons for the analog ones the way I am making it. I am actually going to use another a/b button board for the 1,2 slot I think. But the trigger buttons will be removed to allow for more buttons, and a better setup for me. The R trigger is crap I just discovered last night while playing 2097. It lets up without me knowing it, sometimes even if I'm holding it hard. It is difficult to keep that pressure on that the entire time. Anyway, I am putting in a different dpad, since the hookups to it are difficult, and I dare not solder to it. It is not set up as good as others.

    My negcon at the current tme is at a 45 degree twist, with a slight dead zone. I cannot wait to actually try it with the gas and brakes working.

    OH, RDC. I am using a ps3's steering wheel's guts for the hookups. The buttons are digital. The new pot I am using out of a old wheel or something is a 10k pot with a 90 degree max turn. The actual swing goes just as far as the negcon one, so it works out just right.

  9. #69
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    A 'coder' is just a person that can write code, correctly.

    PIC is short for PICMicrochip, it's sorta like an enclosed PC, just has no operating instructions on it, so ya have to write up code for it to tell it what to do.

    The I/II pots can be used instead of replacing them, provided you connect them up to the wheels gas/brake pedals. Just get the Wiper (center lead) wired up right and then the other 2 ya can mess up if ya want, it'll just act like the button/pedal is pushed all the time until ya swap them around.

  10. #70
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    I haven't worked with PICs (build / program wise) for... ugh, 9 years now. (I'm getting OLD!!!)

    But PICs I worked with were Programmable Integrated Circuits - from how I used them (I know they can do a LOT more than this) but as programmable logic / function / "Dumb Computers" - to carry out small automated tasks.

    Like an infra-red seeker head for a tracking / guidance systems - very similar to how they guide the robotic arm on the space shuttle. (VERY similar)

    I used to be pretty good with them... but 9 years since I even touched one - I'm afraid about all is lost.

    Too bad, as I never lost interest in them, I just never could justify buying a programmer / coding station for them, because 500+ dollars on a "toy" with limited home applications - didn't fly by my wallet. (I was/is poor)

    Back to the original topic - personal life is FINALLY getting back to the norm, and I've at least un-buried the Neggie - and will resume work on it tonight. Due to the time that has lapsed, I'm no longer shooting to have a complete, clean unit on round 1, I just want it functional, and I'll make things pretty should round 1 pan out.

  11. #71
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    I don't mind my controller having different buttons. The digital buttons will work better anyway. Also, the gas break r2 l2 of the wheel I have is a combination digital/ analog. digital for the buttons, and analog for the peddles I think. Too much work I think I need to do here. When replacing them will be faster, and the digital buttons will be more responsive.

    If the twist works correctly, then the rest will be fine.

  12. #72
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    Suc-freaking-cess, for what I set out for anyway.

    With the extremely expert help of Manta (coding) and DojThis (some vital math) the Twist is now a done deal with 4 modes for a different max turning radius..

    Default - Which is around 110 degrees

    Mode 1 - 90 degrees

    Mode 2 - 75 degrees

    Mode 3 - 45 degrees

    For this mess we used a PIC 16F690 and an LTC1660 DAC. The DAC is an Octal, which means it has 8 Digital Analog Converters, but only one of them is used for this and the PIC is also sort of overkill, they were just leftovers that we put to some use.

    http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...neG3con006.jpg

    It has a single push button to cycle thru the modes and a couple of LEDs for feedback so ya know what mode it's in. All that's really left now is to stuff the controller board and PIC/DAC into a project box and make up a decent cable for it, figure 3ft. or so is more than enough, so it's semi-wireless. Stuffing the entire PS3 controller into the neGcon isn't going to happen, and if it did it would look like crap, there just isn't enough room for it to fit in there and to even get into that would be such a chore.

    I'll try and get some vids up later for ya guys of the different modes and show how it all works, like to get it all in the project box first.

  13. #73
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    I can`t wait to see the final product in action

  14. #74
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    I have mine just about ready to go. All buttons are in the negcon, and the base is mounted, so I just need to connect/soder wires to get it up and running. I got a little impatient, so it looks a little frankenstein on the button side, but it should work just fine. I figured out how to get the new dpad in, and have it hold correctly, but now I just need time to put these wires together, and I should be able to give it a nice test. The next one I make, I will probably use the red buttons and blue buttons, but I need to adjust the red buttons to press on a digital pad, which was going to take me too long. I am hoping to have some connections made tonight, and by next week sometime it will be done.

  15. #75
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    NEED HELP HERE I am almost done, but hit a snag with my added dpad, and face button pad

    Both pads, have 5 wires, one wire for each button, and one for ground.

    On the base pad they are being plugged into they have slots for all wires on one piece. which is not a problem, BUT the buttons are being recognized as always on. Do all the wires need to be plugged in for this not to occur? The other sets of buttons I put in worked fine, even on the boards that had l1 and r1 on it, and the one with l2,r2, that worked fine as well. I was able to test each button individually.

    Anyone?

  16. #76
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    Without seeing what you've done it's hard to tell what's wrong, not to mention how ya have it all wired up, and as you've used that steering wheel without knowing how it's setup even if I did see it I couldn't swear as to what may need to be changed around to straighten it out.

    If you'd have used a PS3 controller I could give ya a load of things to try out, but with that wheel as your controller board yer kinda on yer own as I don't even know what it is, let alone had it all apart and traced out to see how it works.
    Last edited by Lance; 9th July 2009 at 10:35 PM. Reason: Redundant quotation removed. Please read the WipeeoutZone guidelines in the announcements section.

  17. #77
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    I am not an electronics genius here. there is no way that I could use a regular ps3 board without knowing exactly where to solder, ect. This board is simple. It turns out that for some buttons/dpad boards, it simply sets itself to on, and you cannot get around it. I tried out a variety of buttons and some worked fine, so it's just going to take me longer than I wanted, thats all. I am going to need to take out the dpads that are in the negcon at the current time unfortunately, but before I do, I'm going to set it so I can play a tt at least (without brs)

  18. #78
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    Al, did i ever told you you are a pure tech-genius?
    Can't wait for the final result ( will open cam this week to let me see your new Neggie Wonder

  19. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by JABBERJAW View Post
    I am not an electronics genius here. there is no way that I could use a regular ps3 board without knowing exactly where to solder, ect. This board is simple. It turns out that for some buttons/dpad boards, it simply sets itself to on, and you cannot get around it. I tried out a variety of buttons and some worked fine, so it's just going to take me longer than I wanted, thats all. I am going to need to take out the dpads that are in the negcon at the current time unfortunately, but before I do, I'm going to set it so I can play a tt at least (without brs)
    Who said ya were? or that I was? The only kind of button that 'sets itself to on' and stays that way is a latching type of switch, and they don't use those for buttons in controllers. Also ya couldn't use that wheel there unless ya knew exactly where to solder, etc., and since it's not working correctly it seems that board's not so simple after all.

    If ya want a decent enough thread to take some of the confusion out of the PS3 controllers have a look here..

    http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=648322

  20. #80
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    I actually have the weekend off from work - for the first time in...........



    ..............

    Yeah, a while. I'll try to complete the Neggie so I can ship it back!

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