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Thread: PS3 NeGcon - Can it be done???

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  1. #1
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    Default PS3 NeGcon - Can it be done???

    See my photo album for the carnage - warning - explicit content!

    http://www.wipeoutzone.com/forum/album.php?albumid=33

    If I can make this thing work....

    Edit: A bit more info to chew on - any input or ideas? Feel free to contribute!

    Thought process currently - take the guts from a PS3 controller - and wire buttons to those inside the NeGcon. As for the NeGcon X, [] and L1 will have to be modified, as they're analogue - thinking of pulling the carbon pad out of the potentiometers and masking them so they respond as switches. (this, should be easier than rigging up a new switch to go into the existing locations) The Twist-Action of the NeGcon will remain intact, but the range of movement will be a lot tighter - 1/2 to 1/3 of original range for max-to-max - hoping to have the potentiometer replaced with one from a PS3 stick (swapping carbon pads between the bodies). As for the PS3 controller - stuffing the mainboard inside the NeGcon (this WILL BE one of my biggest challenges of this project, no doubt about it), installing 4 extra buttons (going to use mini switches for L2, R2, PS Button and Select).

    Phew - my brain are dead for naow!
    Last edited by IH8YOU; 28th April 2009 at 01:01 AM.

  2. #2
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    I am curious to see how or if you will manage to split the controller PCB in two halves... I can't for the life of me think of a way.

    Good luck on your project.

  3. #3
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    I think you might have an easier time if you used one of these Saitek PS2700 controllers as a donor.

    http://www.saitek.com/uk/prod/ps2700.htm

    The D-Pad and Analog stick section is interchangeable, "Cyborg" they call it,you just swivel the pads 180 degrees.

    It's would seem that part of the problem you face with separating the circuit board might have been solved for you?

    [No, Saitek are not going to do a NeGcon type controller,I've already asked in case you were wondering ]

    Couldn't you remap the controls in game so that you didn't have to swap the analogue controls on the NeGcon,the R2 L2 triggers on the sixaxais are analogue,and they work perfectly well having a digital function mapped to them.
    Last edited by blackwiggle; 28th April 2009 at 02:27 AM.

  4. #4
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    hey, 1/3 of the range would be good, if you cannot set the twist. Who the heck uses the negcon at 180 degrees anyway.

  5. #5
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    you might have to use a regular sixaxis instead of a dualshock 3, the DS3 has a higher-precision potentiometer for each axis on the control sticks, so I dont know if you would be able to rewire it properly.

    I could probably7 pull it off, along wiht a bunch of other obscure things Al has suggested to me other times, but I just never have the time available.

  6. #6
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    Asayyeah -OFW-
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    Fascinating Project ! keep up with the good work

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by JABBERJAW View Post
    hey, 1/3 of the range would be good, if you cannot set the twist. Who the heck uses the negcon at 180 degrees anyway.
    I used to hit 90 degrees pretty often. Too much?

  8. #8
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    I would say yes lance. Arnaud sets his at zero, BUT it is not really zero, I think the minimum is 30 or so on the actual controller, because there is still play in the controller. It's better to go left right really quick, but still be accurate. This is for xl of course. For wipeout1, jeez, I think I set mine between 50-80 depending on the ship I use, and in wo3 I set it between I think 51 -67, once again depending on the ship. What are your settings for those games?

  9. #9
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    NEED HELP HERE I am almost done, but hit a snag with my added dpad, and face button pad

    Both pads, have 5 wires, one wire for each button, and one for ground.

    On the base pad they are being plugged into they have slots for all wires on one piece. which is not a problem, BUT the buttons are being recognized as always on. Do all the wires need to be plugged in for this not to occur? The other sets of buttons I put in worked fine, even on the boards that had l1 and r1 on it, and the one with l2,r2, that worked fine as well. I was able to test each button individually.

    Anyone?

  10. #10
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    Without seeing what you've done it's hard to tell what's wrong, not to mention how ya have it all wired up, and as you've used that steering wheel without knowing how it's setup even if I did see it I couldn't swear as to what may need to be changed around to straighten it out.

    If you'd have used a PS3 controller I could give ya a load of things to try out, but with that wheel as your controller board yer kinda on yer own as I don't even know what it is, let alone had it all apart and traced out to see how it works.
    Last edited by Lance; 9th July 2009 at 10:35 PM. Reason: Redundant quotation removed. Please read the WipeeoutZone guidelines in the announcements section.

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